1 bed, 1 bath, kitchen, dining room, living room at about 1080 sq. foot? Nothing fancy, just the necessities. It would be more or less a home to stay at when weather conditions got bad and I couldn't make it to my regular home. If this is irrational, around what size home COULD you build for less than 80k? I'm in central illinois and already have a lot.Would it be irrational to think that I could have a house built for less than 80k?
Having the lot is a big part of the $$ equation--but what you will also need to know is what your lot is zoned for. Will the county, city or burrough permit a home of that square footage?
It is very possible to build a place with that small of a footprint for the kind of money you are talking about but you may very well have to put in a lot of sweat equity yourself.
Here is a website for prefab and modular homes in Illinois in case that is a permissible building type for your lot.
http://illinois.modularhomes.info/Would it be irrational to think that I could have a house built for less than 80k?
Depends who was building it. We had a row of houses go up - and I really mean up in the last few months. The building companies who take longer usually have a reputation for reliability. When my father retired he moved into what he thought was a good quality home. It had been built - that is, from scratch - buying the plot and everything, quite fast. Within a year there was subsidence and a large crack on the wall.
That's all I know, but what fun to go into B %26amp; Q and say to the young assistant -'I want to build a house. What have you got?'
LOL
i dont think its at all unreasonable... its very probable and you may could even build a 2 bedroom...check out americas homeplace or trinity homes... these are companies that build on your lot and have premade plans and stuff.. they have great deals.
a very basic house could be built for that.
not at all. but..
it depends how you go about it, can you project manage, use plant machinery ect? if you cant its gona cost u more
Friday, February 26, 2010
Anyone know a short story about a house built on the design of a Mobius Loop?
The only thing I remember is that when the character tries to open a door to go out, it never leads outside.Anyone know a short story about a house built on the design of a Mobius Loop?
Don't know the story - know the house in Holland by Ben Van Berkel, though:
http://www.unstudio.com/projects/year/20鈥?/a>Anyone know a short story about a house built on the design of a Mobius Loop?
This sounds a bit like a quirky book called Flatland by, I think, Edward Albee. Anyway worth checking out.
Don't know the story - know the house in Holland by Ben Van Berkel, though:
http://www.unstudio.com/projects/year/20鈥?/a>Anyone know a short story about a house built on the design of a Mobius Loop?
This sounds a bit like a quirky book called Flatland by, I think, Edward Albee. Anyway worth checking out.
Where can I buy Grosvenor Hall dolls house built, lit and decorated?
I have always wanted Grosvenor Hall dolls house. The one with the pillars, painted white. Do you know where I can have it built, lit and decorated?Where can I buy Grosvenor Hall dolls house built, lit and decorated?
http://www.dollshouse.com/dhe/product-do鈥?/a>
there you go!
http://www.dollshouse.com/dhe/product-do鈥?/a>
there you go!
About how large is the sewage pipe under my house - built in 2000? Will it accomodate an ice cream cone toy?
My son got a toy (about 1'; diameter cone shaped) down the shower drain. I can't see it and am hoping it goes the way of all good sewage. What are the chances it'll make it's way through?About how large is the sewage pipe under my house - built in 2000? Will it accomodate an ice cream cone toy?
Your lateral should be 4'; at the least. (Its the same size as the stack vent leading up from the floor). It can be made from cast iron, clay pipe, PVC pipe. It will go to the man hole, either in the yard, street, or alleyway.
I would look for the ice cream cone toy in the manhole and make sure it came through there :)
Your line from the shower should be an 1 1/4'; to 1 1/2'; line
I'm betting it made it all the way through, or you would have had problems by now if it didnt. :)
I wish you well...
JesseAbout how large is the sewage pipe under my house - built in 2000? Will it accomodate an ice cream cone toy?
WHY don't you have a drain filter in place?? this would have prevented this and future such accidents!! you will need to have that thing removed as it will not make it thru all the small pipe in the house before it gets to the main drain pipe,,,
If it makes it through the P-trap under the shower, it should make the rest of the journey.
It depends on your codes. If this is a rigid long cone like I'm thinking it is it may name make it through the 90 degree bend in the PVC pipe. It still may be in your house. You said you house was build in 2000. Most new houses have what's know as cleaning traps where condoms, tampons, soap and what not gets stuck down there. As far as it getting stuck in the sewer that is the county to deal with.
4inch minimum. if shower outlet slows it may be stuck in s bend, which should be accessable by plumber/drainlayer. most objects that go down plughole can get to city pipes and a small object won't block them.
The chances are good that it made it through, unless it is so long that it got caught in a curve/turn of the pipes.
The shower probably has a 2-inch diameter pipe leading to a 4-inch diamemeter pipe in your basement (or under your foundation if you don't have a basement). The pipes under the house are at least 4 inches in diameter, and it only gets bigger down stream.
It could get caught on some other blockage (roots in the pipes are unlikely this soon in the house's lifetime), but if you haven't noticed a problem yet, there probably isn't one.hair cut styles
Your lateral should be 4'; at the least. (Its the same size as the stack vent leading up from the floor). It can be made from cast iron, clay pipe, PVC pipe. It will go to the man hole, either in the yard, street, or alleyway.
I would look for the ice cream cone toy in the manhole and make sure it came through there :)
Your line from the shower should be an 1 1/4'; to 1 1/2'; line
I'm betting it made it all the way through, or you would have had problems by now if it didnt. :)
I wish you well...
JesseAbout how large is the sewage pipe under my house - built in 2000? Will it accomodate an ice cream cone toy?
WHY don't you have a drain filter in place?? this would have prevented this and future such accidents!! you will need to have that thing removed as it will not make it thru all the small pipe in the house before it gets to the main drain pipe,,,
If it makes it through the P-trap under the shower, it should make the rest of the journey.
It depends on your codes. If this is a rigid long cone like I'm thinking it is it may name make it through the 90 degree bend in the PVC pipe. It still may be in your house. You said you house was build in 2000. Most new houses have what's know as cleaning traps where condoms, tampons, soap and what not gets stuck down there. As far as it getting stuck in the sewer that is the county to deal with.
4inch minimum. if shower outlet slows it may be stuck in s bend, which should be accessable by plumber/drainlayer. most objects that go down plughole can get to city pipes and a small object won't block them.
The chances are good that it made it through, unless it is so long that it got caught in a curve/turn of the pipes.
The shower probably has a 2-inch diameter pipe leading to a 4-inch diamemeter pipe in your basement (or under your foundation if you don't have a basement). The pipes under the house are at least 4 inches in diameter, and it only gets bigger down stream.
It could get caught on some other blockage (roots in the pipes are unlikely this soon in the house's lifetime), but if you haven't noticed a problem yet, there probably isn't one.
Sqeaky floors - house built in the 50's - new carpet already installed. How would I go about fixing?
I've seen a kit that can screw right through the carpet, then snaps the head of the screw off... is this the way to go?Sqeaky floors - house built in the 50's - new carpet already installed. How would I go about fixing?
There are numerous products on the market that can address the problem. Try to fix the areas that you can access from the basement first, its a long shot but it might just solve the problem. If that doesn't work then pull the carpet and screw the floor down properly. Rent a carpet kicker (approx. $12 a day) or call in a pro. They will only charge a base minimum price to re-kick and stretch the carpet if it is in more or less the same position. When you pull the carpet, pull it up in sections. Pull back from wall, rolling the carpet up almost to the center of the room, then screw down the floor every 12 inches into floor joists. Return carpet to original position, then do other side. It's easier than it sounds, and speaking of sounds, you shouldn't have anymore coming from below your feet. Good Luck
P.S. I would be very cautious about screwing anything through carpet, you could snag the pile and create a run, or have little threads show up eventually in the areas that you punctured.Sqeaky floors - house built in the 50's - new carpet already installed. How would I go about fixing?
There is a product to ';caulk'; into the cracks/space between each piece of wood from underneath, It stops the squeak sound.
IF YOU ACCESS TO THE FLOOR BELOW, YOU CAN ADD BLOCKING OR ADD SCREW TO THE JOISTS. MOST LIKELY YOUR HOME HAS DIAGONAL T%26amp;G, SO BLOCKING WOULD SERVE YOU BETTER....
You can simply find a squeak, use a stud sensor to detect where the nearest joist is, and then screw into your own carpet for the same effect.
Assuming you drive it correctly, the screw will go through the carpet and padding and should secure the floor underlayment to the joist below.
A note of caution, securing one part of the floor may make another part lift up and cause another squeak.
If you are able to, the best thing would be to lift up the carpet and apply screws along the length of the floor joists every 24';. I recommend using 1-1/2'; - 2'; screws.
See the link below for additional info
The system you are talking about is your only way now that you have installed new carpet. I've heard it works well. Make sure you use enough of the screws.
Yes, there is a product that screws into the carpet.....it is known to work well but you need to locate the squeak first. You can buy it at the nearest Home Depot if you have one near you.
I would try to squeak proof the floor from the basement first. Check for cross supports and see if they can be tightened or replaced. In an older homes some floor boards may have been cut and need replacing, depending on past owners work. I speak from experience. I have seen some real damage done to floor supports to allow for added plumbing and wiring, by amateurs, of course. Best of luck to you. It may turn out your method may be the only cure.
I've never heard of that, but that may be the only alternative, I'm sure you don't wanna tear your new carpet up.
your Joice's are to far apart, you need to put 2x4 in between were the squeak's are.
There are numerous products on the market that can address the problem. Try to fix the areas that you can access from the basement first, its a long shot but it might just solve the problem. If that doesn't work then pull the carpet and screw the floor down properly. Rent a carpet kicker (approx. $12 a day) or call in a pro. They will only charge a base minimum price to re-kick and stretch the carpet if it is in more or less the same position. When you pull the carpet, pull it up in sections. Pull back from wall, rolling the carpet up almost to the center of the room, then screw down the floor every 12 inches into floor joists. Return carpet to original position, then do other side. It's easier than it sounds, and speaking of sounds, you shouldn't have anymore coming from below your feet. Good Luck
P.S. I would be very cautious about screwing anything through carpet, you could snag the pile and create a run, or have little threads show up eventually in the areas that you punctured.Sqeaky floors - house built in the 50's - new carpet already installed. How would I go about fixing?
There is a product to ';caulk'; into the cracks/space between each piece of wood from underneath, It stops the squeak sound.
IF YOU ACCESS TO THE FLOOR BELOW, YOU CAN ADD BLOCKING OR ADD SCREW TO THE JOISTS. MOST LIKELY YOUR HOME HAS DIAGONAL T%26amp;G, SO BLOCKING WOULD SERVE YOU BETTER....
You can simply find a squeak, use a stud sensor to detect where the nearest joist is, and then screw into your own carpet for the same effect.
Assuming you drive it correctly, the screw will go through the carpet and padding and should secure the floor underlayment to the joist below.
A note of caution, securing one part of the floor may make another part lift up and cause another squeak.
If you are able to, the best thing would be to lift up the carpet and apply screws along the length of the floor joists every 24';. I recommend using 1-1/2'; - 2'; screws.
See the link below for additional info
The system you are talking about is your only way now that you have installed new carpet. I've heard it works well. Make sure you use enough of the screws.
Yes, there is a product that screws into the carpet.....it is known to work well but you need to locate the squeak first. You can buy it at the nearest Home Depot if you have one near you.
I would try to squeak proof the floor from the basement first. Check for cross supports and see if they can be tightened or replaced. In an older homes some floor boards may have been cut and need replacing, depending on past owners work. I speak from experience. I have seen some real damage done to floor supports to allow for added plumbing and wiring, by amateurs, of course. Best of luck to you. It may turn out your method may be the only cure.
I've never heard of that, but that may be the only alternative, I'm sure you don't wanna tear your new carpet up.
your Joice's are to far apart, you need to put 2x4 in between were the squeak's are.
I was considering having a house built out of cinder block and the stuccoing it?
It would be cinderblock filled with sand and the sides would be rough to hold stucco, would this fix the cracking problem people seem to have with stucco? It would be in texas and the south wall would be the only one filled with sandI was considering having a house built out of cinder block and the stuccoing it?
Certainly valid answers so far. I'll just add my 2 cents. Obviously the footers/slab should be substantial at the least, and up to code. I often suggest overkill; but that's a personal choice.
The cracking occurs in some settling; or an improper mortar mix.
Rough block is OK; I often use the tight wire mesh as well. I also have a couple other suggestions.
Rather than sand, why not rebar verticles and concrete?
Stucco variations: I live in Central FL, and had a house built in 92 with a Fiber Glass based stucco applied. It's only been painted once; looks great still; and is nearly as durable in any DAMAGE issue as mortar based stucco; plus any occasional patching is less obvious.
Steven Wolf
I also suggest steel in the roof / ceiling supports as well as various types of roofing, even Steel. You have in fact a company based in TX that delivers very nice steel homes to site for approx. $11.50 per sq. ft.I was considering having a house built out of cinder block and the stuccoing it?
The foundation is the key, if it settles, it doesn't matter what material the walls are made of.
Nothing to do with your question but make sure you fill the lower blocks with a termite proof product as termites going up the center of blocks can be a nightmare.
The footer is important most cracks are caused by settling as far as the south exposure I would go wit 2x6 studing and 6in insulation.
cinder blocks extract the tempature and it takes for ever to exude so an hvac consultation is a thought. But then its a very!rigid frame or shell youve chosen. On the south wall ask your contractor to build that south wall in what they call tight honeycomb. like your wall will look like the cearal for kids
filled with sand? ok. dont use stucco well thats up to you ask the lathe %26amp; plaster man about a plastic/cement called dry-vit itys german it the the stuff you can add a color to and all new walgreens have it. It's got a 20 yr. warranty. 2000 sq fet to 2500 is about 25,00o to 40,000 depending what you want they can make it look Roman. Like royal. My best friends been doing this system for 25yrs. in tulsa okla. They drill holes in your house then drill down synthetic thick3'; styro lookng stuff. ten wrappit with a net. to ensure smoothness. Then apply what ';mud ';youve picked and it's got a warranty to last @ least forty yrs. w/ no cracks. good luck to you!
Hot as hell in summer and not very watertight.
Certainly valid answers so far. I'll just add my 2 cents. Obviously the footers/slab should be substantial at the least, and up to code. I often suggest overkill; but that's a personal choice.
The cracking occurs in some settling; or an improper mortar mix.
Rough block is OK; I often use the tight wire mesh as well. I also have a couple other suggestions.
Rather than sand, why not rebar verticles and concrete?
Stucco variations: I live in Central FL, and had a house built in 92 with a Fiber Glass based stucco applied. It's only been painted once; looks great still; and is nearly as durable in any DAMAGE issue as mortar based stucco; plus any occasional patching is less obvious.
Steven Wolf
I also suggest steel in the roof / ceiling supports as well as various types of roofing, even Steel. You have in fact a company based in TX that delivers very nice steel homes to site for approx. $11.50 per sq. ft.I was considering having a house built out of cinder block and the stuccoing it?
The foundation is the key, if it settles, it doesn't matter what material the walls are made of.
Nothing to do with your question but make sure you fill the lower blocks with a termite proof product as termites going up the center of blocks can be a nightmare.
The footer is important most cracks are caused by settling as far as the south exposure I would go wit 2x6 studing and 6in insulation.
cinder blocks extract the tempature and it takes for ever to exude so an hvac consultation is a thought. But then its a very!rigid frame or shell youve chosen. On the south wall ask your contractor to build that south wall in what they call tight honeycomb. like your wall will look like the cearal for kids
filled with sand? ok. dont use stucco well thats up to you ask the lathe %26amp; plaster man about a plastic/cement called dry-vit itys german it the the stuff you can add a color to and all new walgreens have it. It's got a 20 yr. warranty. 2000 sq fet to 2500 is about 25,00o to 40,000 depending what you want they can make it look Roman. Like royal. My best friends been doing this system for 25yrs. in tulsa okla. They drill holes in your house then drill down synthetic thick3'; styro lookng stuff. ten wrappit with a net. to ensure smoothness. Then apply what ';mud ';youve picked and it's got a warranty to last @ least forty yrs. w/ no cracks. good luck to you!
Hot as hell in summer and not very watertight.
How long does it take to have a house built?
Using DR Horton/KB Homes/Any other builder?
Assuming there are no paperwork snags, and weather should not be a problem.How long does it take to have a house built?
a long timeHow long does it take to have a house built?
It took my family to build a 1/2 million dollars house 3 years to build
Contractors are a Bi+ch and sometimes won't show up and there is nothing you can really do about it unless you want a long legal process
It usually depends on the size of the house, who is building it, what you want in it, etc... But normally 6-8 months.
Assuming there are no paperwork snags, and weather should not be a problem.How long does it take to have a house built?
a long timeHow long does it take to have a house built?
It took my family to build a 1/2 million dollars house 3 years to build
Contractors are a Bi+ch and sometimes won't show up and there is nothing you can really do about it unless you want a long legal process
It usually depends on the size of the house, who is building it, what you want in it, etc... But normally 6-8 months.
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